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Baldwin Street, Dunedin
The steepest street in the world has taken everyone by surprise.
It climbs an awesome slope to history in suburban Dunedin, New Zealand -
not hilly San Francisco, craggy Cumbria or alpine Switzerland.
Baldwin Street runs off a main road just minutes from the centre of the
city. The little street lifts gently then rears up dramatically only to
stop dead on the hillside after 34 houses.
A walk up it is a heady experience and shouldn't be missed. Choose the 270
steps past just seven houses or test your calf muscles on the path opposite
- the wooden railing helps.
Turn at the top for a conqueror's view of distant hills and traffic far
below and, in the serenity above the morning mist, consider why Baldwin
Street residents, young and old, remain faithful to their hillside homes.
On the right day, if the mail is still peeping from the boxes, one of the
often reserved inhabitants might come out and explain why the huge
macrocarpa hedge has a big, brown scar, why sightseers musn't drive up
Baldwin Street, what happened when two new houses were built, or even how
one man nearly lost his life.
Although in a city that dates back to the middle of last century - and was
settled by hardy, pioneering Scots who named their hilly, harbour
settlement 'Dunedin - Edinburgh of the South' - Baldwin Street didn't yield
its secret until 1985. The late discovery may be due to the imperturbable
nature of Dunedin citizens. Thirty-three of their streets have gradients
of more than 1 in 6, several higher than 1 in 4.
To matter-of-fact residents, Baldwin Street is just another of the city's
casually-labelled "steep seven". Dalmeny Street is two streets away and
View Street is an important traffic link in the centre of town. Only a
modest sign warning motorists to park with their fuel tanks on the upper
side acknowledges its grand swoop into Moray Place.
Before the Guinness Book of Records listing, Baldwin Street residents
didn't consider steep streets to be a visitor attraction. More likely
choices close to home were the Botanic Garden with its rhodedendrons and
azaleas, the edge of city walking tracks further along North East Valley or
the magnificently architectured Otago University - new Zealand's first.
But in 34 houses as individual as New Zealanders themselves, residents
stirred uneasily as a new dam broke on Baldwin Street.
Screams from tortured engines, human cries of anguish and sounds of
crumpling metal and splitting wood became common as thrill-seekers allowed
their vehicles to tell them what their eyes didn't. Cars stall when
drivers try to change gear on the hill. As braking power is less rolling
backwards than moving forward vehicles often career out of control. That's
why the hedge is scarred and wooden street railings have new sections. A
low gear whine can be heard as residents move along the gentle slope and up
the hill. They know how to approach the climb and can say which vehicles
shouldn't tackle the gradient.
A truck driver leaving one of the newest properties clung to the brake
pedal and the cab after his lorry flipped forward at the steepest point.
Locals held his huge vehicle together with rope until he reached the
bottom. Later a resident said: "He is a very lucky man".
Baldwin Street IS steep - maximum gradient 1 in 2.9 angle over 38 degrees.
Afterwards, adventurous victims glance defensively at the concreted section
and say: "It doesn't look that STEEP".
Wistfully, old timers remember: It used to be such a quiet street.
Like anyone newly famous, Baldwin Street is trying to come to terms with
its status. The Dunedin Visitor Centre doesn't offer promotional
literature on the marvel. "The residents wouldn't like it". But ask how
to find Baldwin Street and you'll be given directions. Take the Normanby
bus to North Road and it's the tenth street past the Gardens corner.
Some wish the street sign 'World's Steepest' didn't exist. They say only a
total ban on unauthorised driving will suffice. The annual Gut Buster
event in which contestants of all ages race up the monster, is gradually
being accepted.
To conclude from this that sightseers aren't welcome on Baldwin Street is
understandable. But it would be wrong; an underestimation of the helpful
nature of friendly Kiwis when they encounter genuine tourists. The
Japanese who admired an impressive camellia bush was presented with blooms
by its owner, residents posed for the camera of a Canadian, and the
resident who related the latest needless accident close to his home, didn't
hesitate when asked if considerate visitors were welcome
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